Hello, friends!
Sorry this has been so long
in coming, but I have been quite busy. Without further ado, I give
you: Belgian Adventures.
I flew to Belgium early Saturday morning at the tail end of February.
The plane landed in Brussels (the capital of Belgium), and I took the train
to the city center. After the usual orientation business (find out
where you are, where you want to go, get money to buy a ticket to go there),
I gave up trying to figure out their confusing metro system and hoofed
it two miles to the hostel I had mad a reservation at.
I didn't have a map of the city, and I got lost—I was near the hostel,
but I couldn't find the right street. So I wandered into the first
open business I came across, which took some finding in and of itself (apparently
Brussels is closed on Saturday). It was a small cafe and the proprietor
spoke no English; and I spoke no French; and he spoke no Spanish; and I
spoke no Arabic. "Then we are at an impasse, for I can't compete
with you physically, and you're no match for my brains." (I didn't
say that; it's just a line I think of when in these situations (yes, those
situations when I'm trying to get directions from an Arab who works in
a dingy cafe and speaks no English).) I was able to make clear that
I was lost (harder than you might think), and I showed him the address
of where I was trying to get to. He took out a map of the city and
showed me where it was, and then we played a little game called, "Giving
and Receiving Directions in Pantomime." It must have vastly amusing
to anyone who cared to watch, but eventually he gave up
trying to tell me and drew a little map of the area on a napkin (which
I still have). Then with this visual aid, we played another round
of the game but with greater success this time, and I left the cafe and
after some twists and turn found my hostel. (Ironically enough, while
I was searching for it and before I had
come upon the very friendly and helpful Arab, I stumbled upon the hostel
I had rejected when making reservations in favor of the other one.)
But I made it—only to have the man at the desk tell me he hadn't received
my reservation. Fortunately I had my receipt from the hostel in London
through which I had booked a bed. (You can make reservations for
Hostelling International hostels through any other HI hostel in the world.)
He checked the
computer again and this time my name came up, but he had already booked
all the dorm beds! He told me he would work something out, so I waited
for a few minutes and after consulting his lodging ledger he asked me if
a single room at the same price would be all right. I told him I
would manage.
I bought a map and set out to see the sight of Brussels. I should
tell you now—there are no sights of Brussels. No, that's not entirely
true—there was a neat cathedral, and an impressive historic town square
and one or two other things. (Like a fountain surmounted by a small
statue of a boy toddler peeing, for which Brussels is famous for reasons
no one knows—weird—there's an add campaign promoting Belgium going on in
London right now and the slogan is, "Belgium--it's slightly different."
How apropos.) Anyway I was in the aforementioned cathedral, looking
at some art, when this girl comes over and starts talking to me.
She was around my age, not bad to look at, and seemed nice enough, so when
she invited me to grab a snack after the service (yes, I stayed for the
afternoon service… in French and Latin) I wasn’t saying no.
We grabbed a snack in a small, expensive cafe, walked around Brussels
some more, gave directions to two people who just ran up to me and asked
for directions, and then went to Pizza Hut for supper. This was her
idea, not mine, because we happened to be near Pizza Hut when we were hungry.
Of course, we actually weren’t near Pizza Hut; we only thought we were,
but hey, we found it after half an hour… Pizza Hut is more expensive
in Belgium; but it was still good, American pizza, of which Europe is almost
devoid, and I was really missing some. Then more walking around the
city at night before taking her back to her hotel and—good heavens!
No! We just said goodnight at the door to the hotel! Geez.
Then I strolled to the hostel for a good night's sleep in a room all to
myself.
The next morning, after a truly strange shower—the actual shower, not
the act of showering, was strange—the shower was in a small room containing
only the shower, and there was a shower curtain to keep water in.
But it didn't work. At all. That is, the shower curtain was
about 3 inches from the
floor, and there wasn't any threshold to keep water within the shower
itself, so a rather large pond formed in the small room outside the shower,
which then flowed under the door to form a slightly smaller pond in the
room containing the toilet and sink, which was for everyone on the floor.
Oh, well. There was absolutely nothing I could do, except not shower,
which if you know me, really isn't an option. So I took my shower,
waded back to my room, packed up, and left for Luxembourg.
The train to Luxembourg was interesting—I found out that Americans
are not the only ones to heap trash, appliances, furniture, and old cares
in big piles on the side of the road or even in their own backyards.
The Belgians are guilty of it as well. Ha ha! Other than that,
the train ride was really not that exciting, until I got to Luxembourg
and started seeing castles everywhere.
Luxembourg is a tiny country a little smaller than Rhode Island.
It has a population of about 350,000 and has 76 castles! You can't
swing a dead cat in Luxembourg without hitting a castle. It's also
expensive and, due to favourable tax laws, is trying to take the banking
title from Switzerland. I took the bus to the only hostel in Luxembourg
City (which I will henceforth refer to as Luxembourg, if I henceforth
refer to it; or I might be referring to the country, itself--you'll
just have to decide). On the bus, I met a woman from Magnesite, who
is studying in Germany, who is also a Christian—don't get any ideas, Mom,
she's also in her early thirties. We dropped our stuff off at the
hostel and headed out to see the sights of Luxembourg. The city is
a lot of fun to walk around in because it is full of narrow, winding, cobblestone
streets, historic buildings, old castles and fortresses, and that Luxembourgese
mystique—oh wait, not that last part.
We ate at a nifty and tasty Greek restaurant, walked around some more,
had ice cream, grabbed fries at McDonald's, talked about the importance
of travelling, and just generally had a good time. Heading back to
the hostel, we got a little lost—it is impossible to get any more than
a little lost in Luxembourg—and stopped by a statue for some buffoonery—you'll
just have to see the pictures.
After a short night's sleep, we met at breakfast and decided to go
see the Casemates—27 kilometers of tunnels beneath the remains of an ancient
fortress. We had lots of fun; those of you who know me can doubtless
imagine my joy at being able to explore underground passage ways and "secret"
tunnels and stone spiral staircases leading to dungeons deep within the
rock—again, you'll have to see the pictures.
Then we walked on through the city to "the most beautiful balcony in
Europe," which really did give a spectacular view of the valley (the city
is built on top of a mountain pass, which explains why ownership of the
country was kicked around to various European empires for centuries before
gaining full
independence around the turn of the century). But I digress,
and my train was calling, so it was back to Brussels for me, which, I discovered,
was still full of Belgians—more Belgians than you can shake a stick at.
In Brussels, I wanted to do three things: eat at a nifty restaurant
mentioned in my guidebook, see the peeing boy (actually called the Mannikin
Pis!), and buy chocolate. Clearly, the last goal was the most important.
Unfortunately, I had to take the metro to achieve these goals before my
flight left. I wasted an hour trying to get from the train station
to the restaurant on that incredibly annoying Belgian metro, but eventually
I did make it to the restaurant—too late to eat there and too late to see
the statue. (I hope I can survive the severe emotional scarring that
I'm certain will result from not seeing a statute of a small boy peeing.)
I did, however, manage to buy chocolate! I bought it at Leonidas,
one of the more expensive chocolatiers in Belgium and with good reason.
The chocolate was exquisite! I have never had chocolate that good!
Absolutely incredible. Some of you might be saying, "Hm, that's all
well and good for you lot who like chocolate, but I can take chocolate
or leave it; and I'm doing just fine, thank you." I'm here to tell
you that your life will never be complete until you have tasted this Olympian
nectar, this sweet ambrosia, this food of the gods! Jim tried some,
and you can just ask him about it—and it was two weeks old when he sampled
a few pieces. Even Evan, my roommate, who professed not to care for
chocolate, now cannot get enough of the stuff—I'm telling you—it was that
good! You will never believe me until you've tried some for yourself,
so what are you waiting for? Get going! Now! Go on!
Stop reading this drivel and find some fine (and authentic) Belgian (or
Swiss) chocolate. Look at you! Still reading away, as if I
never said a thing, as if the secret to eternal happiness hadn't just been
handed to you (or at least the secret to a few minutes worth of happiness).
Oh well, no hope for you, I suppose. I guess we'll just have to carry
on with the story.
I bought the chocolate, took the train to the airport, flew back to
London, and that was that. Now go buy some chocolate.
Matt <:{)